“Portugal is a high hill with a white watch tower on it flying signal flags. It is apparently inhabited by one man who lives in a long row of yellow houses with red roofs, and populated by sheep who do grand acts of balancing on the side of the hill.”

— Richard Harding Davis

The Beach in Portugal

We rented a car in Lisbon and headed straight for the Atlantic Ocean. Portugal is a coastal nation. Miles and miles of beach are less than a 2 hour drive away from the most inland part of Portugal. As you travel along the coastal hills and farms you begin to get a glimpse of the people that live here. The villages are clean. The locals smile and and generally appreciate visitors. Maybe it’s because everyone lives so close to the beach.

We hunkered down in Santa Cruz, a small beach town and split our stay at two sister resorts. Like most siblings, each has a unique personality but the family resemblance is undeniable. The younger sister is extroverted, carefree and adventurous, the other tranquil is modern, introverted and sophisticated. Both sisters are stunning and embraced us as family from the moment we arrived.

Areias do Seixo, the big sister

The older sister is modern and understated. If you don’t pay attention, you’ll probably miss the turn off from the main road. Areias do Seixo is perched quietly above the beach. The many walls of glass offer panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean. The exterior entrance is inviting but unremarkable. However, once through the portal, you are transported to a magical world of light, glass and furnishings from around the world. The entry hall is grand, modern and minimalistic. The buildings showcase unique art as functional parts of the structure itself. After a warm welcome and refreshing drink, you begin to relax and explore your options. In addition to the infinity pool and spa, you might enjoy a private picnic on the beach or wandering through the organic garden or joining the fire circle at golden hour or listening to live, fiery Portuguese music.

We made fast friends with Tommy. His warm smile greeted us each morning. Tommy helped us with bikes, picnics and creative ideas of how to enjoy our day.

The glass walled lobby of Areias do Seixo at sunset

The stairs to the lobby from the rooms at Areias do Seixo

Our host guides us through the halls to our room. When the door opens we enter a private living space unlike anything we have every seen! Glass chandeliers from Morocco paired with cement and stone. A spacious tub for 2 is built into the floor as is our king size bed. A shower is inside and another is on the private patio outside. Wood stacked nearly to the ceiling for a cozy fire to ward off the evening chill. Each guest room is unique. If a room is unoccupied, ask if you can peak inside to plan your next visit!

As light shimmers off glass walls and chandeliers, the Areias do Siexo restaurant features mostly fresh and local food. A hearty breakfast is available each morning. Enjoy hot tea made from garden herbs just for you. A glass of wine at sunset offers guests the opportunity to meet others and trade stories. The beautiful spa offers massage, sauna and yoga. A shuttle runs daily between Areias do Siexo and the little sister, Noah Surf House. Areias is perfect for the romantically inclined. It is well designed for large groups and is sometimes completely reserved for hotel guests. Check the hotel policy before making reservations regarding children and infants.

Noah Surf House, the little sister

The vibe here is chill and tranquilo. Diana or Pedro greet you with a hearty Bom Dia (Good Day) and you quickly become Noah Surf House family. Obrigado (Thank You) is a word you will hear over and over. This is a surf house built for surfers and surf families and people who simply enjoy the beach life and the surfer vibe. There is a restaurant inside the main building. You also have the option of buying food at the market down the street and preparing your meals in the main house. In addition, the Noah Beach House Restaurant is a 3 minute walk.

NSH consists of a main house with guest rooms and an open large common area. The complex is sprinkled with comfortable couches for lounging, reading and hanging out. A giant screen (volume off) in the common room usually features inspiring surfing videos. Outside the main house are private bungalows, some with mini kitchens. The bungalows are staggered so each one offers a terrific ocean view. Our bungalow featured a wood burning fireplace for warmth, private deck with ocean view, outside storage for gear as well as an outside shower. They also offer secure parking for overnight guests.

Check with the activity desk for assistance with riding bikes or learning to surf or day trip explorations. There is also a mini skate board park for the kids on site! The infinity pool and hot tub are out of this world.

Offshore trade winds provide a steady breeze. This constant wind is a gift to people who wish they were birds. To the left of NSH you will likely see paragliding riding the winds. These brave souls barely clear the bluffs. Back and forth they go with a dancing rhythm.

Surfing in Portugal

Portuguese beaches are a pilgrimage destination for expert surfers. Nazaré, Portugal hosts a giant wave surf competition and in 2/2019, Sebastian Steudtner of Germany surfed a wave almost 100 feet high. Not to worry, the surf around NSH is gentle and perfect for beginner surfers. NSH offers classes for children and adults of almost any age. I signed up for a surf lesson with 4 other novices. Our instructor was attentive and helpful so by the end of our session, our skills improved. It was a successful day. You can read about my first surfing attempt at Playa Dominical in Costa Rica. While the water around Costa Rica is warm and inviting, wet suits are necessary in Portugal. Fortunately, Noah has all the equipment.

Noah instructors also teach local kids to surf

Ride through the Hills

If you want to get away from sand and surf, take a trip inland. Both Noah and Areias do Siexo have guest bikes. While the country roads that weave through the costal hills are narrow, the traffic is low (depending on the time of year). I explored many villages and hamlets in the area. Napoleon waged war over a century ago in the fields around Vimeiro. A museum and monuments in town commemorate the battle and honor the soldiers.

A farmer with a tractor passing a the monument to the soldiers in Vimerio.

Óbidos

If you have a car, drive 30 minutes to the ancient walled city of Óbidos which was originally settled by the Romans in the 5th century. Óbidos was a thriving community in the Middle Ages. The town has charming cobbled streets, beautiful stone buildings, churches, castles and stone walls. This is an easy day trip. If you don’t have a vehicle, Areias and Noah will happily arrange transportation.

We love Portugal! We found the locals charming, the food delicious and the scenery spectacular. We plan to return and encourage you to visit the coast of Portugal! Até a próxima vez.

Travel stories

Beach Life in Portugal