Meteora - Columns in the Sky
“My imagination is a monastery and I am its monk.”
The Holy Trinity Monastery of Meteora
Meteora is unforgettable. A harmony of natural and human beauty that literally hangs in the sky.
In order to fathom the human effort and creativity required to construct the monasteries at Meteora be sure to spend at least 1 night there. At night the sky is very dark except for the stars and 1 or 2 twinkling lights that eerily illuminate large buildings perched on the top of giant rocks. During the day meander the centuries old stone walkways and bridges and wander the monastery hallways and contemplate ancient texts explaining the ways of this world. Then you will understand why UNESCO designated Meteora as a “region of almost inaccessible sandstone peaks.”
Holy Trinity Mnastery
Rousanou Monastery at sunset
Varlaam Monastery
Varlaam and Great Meteoron Monasteries at sunrise
History
The story of Meteora begins in the 1200’s when Constantinople was the capital of the aging Byzantine Empire, really the remnants of the Roman Empire. Younger world powers, the Venetians and the Ottomans, were competing for world dominance. Both laid siege to Constantinople. This library housed the many important Greek, Roman and Christian texts. If the books were not moved they would be destroyed when the Ottomans took possession of the city and likely lost forever.
Monks and scholars shepherded the books and icons out of the city and went to the far reaches of the empire. Many of the books found their way to a new home on top of imposing rocks to create the Library of Great Meteoron. The library not only protected the religious texts but also the works of Homer, Sophocles, Aristotle and others. If it were not for these brave monks and scholars many of these books could have been erased from history.
Museums and archives one of the monasteries
Getting to Meteora
Petrino Guest House in Kastraki
Meteora translates to “in the sky.” The name is fits. Enormous vertical rock formations dramatically shoot up to create a landscape of wonder. On the top are the 1000 year old Eastern Orthodox monasteries. They were built to house and protect the treasured texts of western civilization.
Head north from Athens to Meteora on a modern highway for 5 or 6 hours. As you get closer to Bulgaria, you will arrive at one of the most surreal settings on earth. You can get to Meteora by train. Once there, explore miles of trails by scooter or bike. Our friends at Athens Photo Tours provide an all day guided trip to Meteora. Use the special code TIB10 to book the tour and get a travelisbeautiful discount. However you decide to explore Meteora, give yourself the opportunity to be alone and away from the crowds. Check out Meteora.com for other hiking, climbing biking and private coach tours.
Kastraki and Kalampaka are the 2 towns closest to Meteora. Kalampaka is larger with more amenities and tourists. We chose to stay at the smaller town, Kastraki, and found a wonderful little inn called the Petrino Guest House located at the base of a magnificent rock. In the evening we strolled through town and found several local spots for dinner.
Meteora at Night
Varlaam and Great Meteoron Monasteries under the stars
Spend 2 days and immerse yourself in the marvelous
While it is possible to squeeze a visit to Meteora to one day, it is best to stay at least 1 night because the sunset, night, and sunrise are all stunning. Experiencing the rock formations and monasteries under the stars is otherworldly and very very quiet. If you decide on a night excursion you will encounter few vehicles (we encountered 3 cars the night we went out) on the winding road from Kastraki. As you ascend, the starry sky suddenly reveals itself. You will likely have this scene all to yourself or perhaps another adventurous soul or 2. Either way, it is a night sky you will remember. While you cannot enter the monasteries after sunset, you can drive to the car park, get out to take photos and experience this amazing place in silence.
A tripod is required in order to take night photos. The images below are an 8 sec exposure, ISO 6400, and f stop from 1.4-2.5.
The lights below on the left are the villages
Varlaam Monastery
The villages of Kastraki and Kalabaka below Meteora
Visit a Monastery
These working monasteries accommodate visitors during certain times of the week. Check the scheduled visiting hours before you plan your visit. Wear clothing that respects the dignity of sacred places. Often the monasteries have sarongs or shawls you can borrow for your visit. There are also restrictions on where you can and cannot take photos or video. But sometimes putting the camera or phone in your pocket enhances the intimacy of the experience. Savor it all.
Tip - Visit early or late. The tour bus hordes have discovered Meteora. From our experience they begin to arrive around 10am and leave about 3pm. All 6 monasteries are open to visitors but they stagger open hours so plan ahead!
We had the opportunity to talk with a monk who was thrilled to practice his English. We shared stories and he answered our questions. Questions that ranged from how be became a monk to how does one pray. It was a unique conversation that we will long remember.
To visit a monastery atop these rocks requires some fitness. You will climb flights of winding stairs higher and higher until finally you are surrounded by nothing but air and sky. The views are as expected - heavenly.
We left Meteora with a feeling of wonder and awe because it is unique. Natural beauty and spiritual transcendence come together here in a cosmic dance. If you visit Greece, make time for a pilgrimage to Meteora. You will be glad you did.
The view from the patio of the Varlaam Monastery
Walking out the chapel door into the light
Looking out a monk’s window
Detailed brick and tile work
The winding stairway to the monastery
The patio of the Varlaam Monastery
Walking into the Varlaam Monastery
Beautiful detail on the monastery walls
Icons in the monastery
Use a scooter to explore this beautiful place